Bucephalus ExpeditionBy Faruq Khan

Bucephalus
Expedition

An Adventure from London to Karachi in a Land Rover

1964The Summer
84Days
15,788Miles
14Countries

In the summer of 1964, seven friends packed a battered second-hand Land Rover, named Bucephalus, and drove it from a terraced street in Islington, England to Karachi, Pakistan — and back.

Eighty-four days. Fifteen thousand, seven hundred and eighty-eight miles. Fourteen countries. They crossed the Bosphorus by ferry and the Zagros by night, argued their way past a customs officer too drunk to stand in the Iranian desert, floated in the Dead Sea, and watched buzkashi played out beneath Babur's citadel in Kabul. Along the way: the souks of Aleppo before the war, the Khyber Pass while it was still open to travellers like them, the shrines of Isfahan, the tomb of Saladin in Damascus, and the relentless hospitality of strangers the entire way from London to the Khyber and back.

Written from the journals kept at the time and the photographs that survived the journey, Bucephalus Expedition is the record of a world that, in the sixty years since, has changed dramatically.

Bucephalus Expedition by Faruq Khan, hardcover edition

The Photographs

Images from the journey, captioned as they appear in the book and keyed to the chapter they belong to. Use the arrows, your keyboard, or swipe.

Chapter

Chapter 1 — Preparations & Departure

Bucephalus, our used 1961 Land Rover

Bucephalus, our used 1961 Land Rover

Chapter 1 — Preparations & Departure

Bucephalus at Apprentice Training School, Crewe Locomotive Works. Being examined by instructors to make sure everything is ‘Shipshape and Bristol fashion’

Bucephalus at Apprentice Training School, Crewe Locomotive Works. Being examined by instructors to make sure everything is ‘Shipshape and Bristol fashion’

Chapter 1 — Preparations & Departure

Bucephalus at Bulfan. Valerie, Aunty Hilda & Pat in the foreground. Graham & Uncle Bob at the back

Bucephalus at Bulfan. Valerie, Aunty Hilda & Pat in the foreground. Graham & Uncle Bob at the back

Chapter 1 — Preparations & Departure

Hurried re-loading of Bucephalus outside #18, Danbury Street before departure

Hurried re-loading of Bucephalus outside #18, Danbury Street before departure

Chapter 3 — The Autoput, Serbo-Croat Police & the Balkan Frontier

Outside Hotel Sebastopol, exchanging addresses with Mr Kaman Shapov

Outside Hotel Sebastopol, exchanging addresses with Mr Kaman Shapov

Chapter 3 — The Autoput, Serbo-Croat Police & the Balkan Frontier

Just short of the Austro-Yugoslav frontier, a brief respite. Catching up with our diaries and log

Just short of the Austro-Yugoslav frontier, a brief respite. Catching up with our diaries and log

Chapter 4 — Imperial Edirne & the Bosphorus Camp

Selimiye Mosque

Selimiye Mosque

Chapter 4 — Imperial Edirne & the Bosphorus Camp

View of Sultan Ahmed Mosque (also known as the Blue Mosque)

View of Sultan Ahmed Mosque (also known as the Blue Mosque)

Chapter 4 — Imperial Edirne & the Bosphorus Camp

The main prayer hall under the great dome

The main prayer hall under the great dome

Chapter 4 — Imperial Edirne & the Bosphorus Camp

Under the magnificent dome of the Sultan Ahmet

Under the magnificent dome of the Sultan Ahmet

Chapter 4 — Imperial Edirne & the Bosphorus Camp

Tilework at the Sultanahmet Mosque

Tilework at the Sultanahmet Mosque

Chapter 4 — Imperial Edirne & the Bosphorus Camp

Topkapi Palace, just above the Sirkeçi District

Topkapi Palace, just above the Sirkeçi District

Chapter 5 — The Rover Agents & the Grueling Shift to the Levant

Uncle Bob and I, outside the Istanbul Hilton

Uncle Bob and I, outside the Istanbul Hilton

Chapter 5 — The Rover Agents & the Grueling Shift to the Levant

Washing in a mountain stream in the Taurus mountains

Washing in a mountain stream in the Taurus mountains

Chapter 6 — The Mountains of the Sun God & the Faith of Damascus

With villagers at Payas just off the beach

With villagers at Payas just off the beach

Chapter 6 — The Mountains of the Sun God & the Faith of Damascus

Breakfast among the ruins of Baalbek

Breakfast among the ruins of Baalbek

Chapter 6 — The Mountains of the Sun God & the Faith of Damascus

The tomb of Salahuddin Ayubi

The tomb of Salahuddin Ayubi

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

The guard post in Jerash

The guard post in Jerash

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

The colonnade plaza in Jerash

The colonnade plaza in Jerash

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

The colonnade plaza in Jerash with the ruts made by cartwheels clearly visible

The colonnade plaza in Jerash with the ruts made by cartwheels clearly visible

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

On the road to the Dead Sea (1,372’ below sea level). Here crossing Sea Level. Graham and I on the slopes

On the road to the Dead Sea (1,372’ below sea level). Here crossing Sea Level. Graham and I on the slopes

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

Floating on the brackish waters of the Dead Sea. Left to right: Patricia, Valerie, myself and Patrick

Floating on the brackish waters of the Dead Sea. Left to right: Patricia, Valerie, myself and Patrick

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

The Dome of the Rock

The Dome of the Rock

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

Quranic verses atop the Dome of the Rock

Quranic verses atop the Dome of the Rock

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

The prayer gallery surrounding the As Sakhara, just below the golden dome of the Dome of the Rock

The prayer gallery surrounding the As Sakhara, just below the golden dome of the Dome of the Rock

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

Masjid Al Aqsa

Masjid Al Aqsa

Chapter 7 — The Dawn Eclipse of Jerash, the Dead Sea, and the Walled Holy City

Inside Masjid Al Aqsa

Inside Masjid Al Aqsa

Chapter 8 — The Arab Legion & the Midday Heat of Rutba

Graham preparing stew for lunch

Graham preparing stew for lunch

Chapter 9 — The Southern Marshes, the Rain of Basra & the Persia Mountains

With the Marine family at Bait Marine

With the Marine family at Bait Marine

Chapter 9 — The Southern Marshes, the Rain of Basra & the Persia Mountains

Tony Marine

Tony Marine

Chapter 11 — The City of Roses & the Throne of Jamshid

Tomb of Sa’adi

Tomb of Sa’adi

Chapter 11 — The City of Roses & the Throne of Jamshid

Staircase at Persepolis – Medes bearing gifts

Staircase at Persepolis – Medes bearing gifts

Chapter 11 — The City of Roses & the Throne of Jamshid

The burial vaults of Achaemenian Kings – the burial chamber of Darius the Great on the right

The burial vaults of Achaemenian Kings – the burial chamber of Darius the Great on the right

Chapter 11 — The City of Roses & the Throne of Jamshid

Shaikh Lutfullah Mosque, Isfahan

Shaikh Lutfullah Mosque, Isfahan

Chapter 12 — Isfahan — Half the World

Ali Qapu on the right and looking towards the Masjid e Madre Shah

Ali Qapu on the right and looking towards the Masjid e Madre Shah

Chapter 12 — Isfahan — Half the World

Interior of the Sheikh Lutfullah Mosque

Interior of the Sheikh Lutfullah Mosque

Chapter 12 — Isfahan — Half the World

Masjid e Mader e Shah, Isfahan

Masjid e Mader e Shah, Isfahan

Chapter 12 — Isfahan — Half the World

Main entrance to Madraseh Chaharbagh

Main entrance to Madraseh Chaharbagh

Chapter 12 — Isfahan — Half the World

Madraseh Chaharbagh

Madraseh Chaharbagh

Chapter 14 — The Last Miles of Iran — Bam to the Pakistan Frontier

L to R: Patrick, Bob, Graham (behind Bob), Valerie, Faruq (standing), Patricia & Hilda — 19 miles (31 km) south of Quetta

L to R: Patrick, Bob, Graham (behind Bob), Valerie, Faruq (standing), Patricia & Hilda — 19 miles (31 km) south of Quetta

Chapter 16 — 7,008 Miles — the Final Leg to Karachi

L to R: Graham Boyes, Patricia Vaughan, Talat Khan, Hilda Kersey, Anjum Zafar, Valerie Boyes, Dr. Robert W Kersey, Faruq Khan, Patrick Vaughan

L to R: Graham Boyes, Patricia Vaughan, Talat Khan, Hilda Kersey, Anjum Zafar, Valerie Boyes, Dr. Robert W Kersey, Faruq Khan, Patrick Vaughan

Chapter 17 — The Return Begins — Peshawar to Kabul

Heading due west to Landikotal & Torkham, past the regimental crests — Khyber Pass

Heading due west to Landikotal & Torkham, past the regimental crests — Khyber Pass

Chapter 18 — Across the Afghan Interior — Kabul to Herat

Chihil Zina, Qandahar. From L to R: a local tour guide, Valerie, Faruq, Patrick, Aunty Hilda, Patricia

Chihil Zina, Qandahar. From L to R: a local tour guide, Valerie, Faruq, Patrick, Aunty Hilda, Patricia

Chapter 18 — Across the Afghan Interior — Kabul to Herat

Camp just short of Herat. Uncle Bob fixing breakfast at the rear of Bucephalus, whilst Valerie attends to her hair and I have a wash in the irrigation channel

Camp just short of Herat. Uncle Bob fixing breakfast at the rear of Bucephalus, whilst Valerie attends to her hair and I have a wash in the irrigation channel

Chapter 22 — Neyshabur & the Road to Tehran

Patricia and I retrieving our suitcase from the locals

Patricia and I retrieving our suitcase from the locals

Chapter 23 — Tehran & the Road to the Caspian

Patrick driving — next to him Aunty Hilda — Patricia and Faruq partially visible, Summer 1964

Patrick driving — next to him Aunty Hilda — Patricia and Faruq partially visible, Summer 1964

Chapter 24 — The Caspian Coast to the Turkish Frontier

Patricia & Valerie in the shadow of Mt Ararat with Anatolian nomads

Patricia & Valerie in the shadow of Mt Ararat with Anatolian nomads

Chapter 25 — Turkey — Erzurum, the Black Sea & the Hospitality of Elmadag

Black Sea beach at Trabzon. L to R: Graham, Valerie, Faruq, Patrick, Aunty Hilda and Uncle Bob, and Patricia on the bonnet

Black Sea beach at Trabzon. L to R: Graham, Valerie, Faruq, Patrick, Aunty Hilda and Uncle Bob, and Patricia on the bonnet

Chapter 25 — Turkey — Erzurum, the Black Sea & the Hospitality of Elmadag

Our hosts at Elmadag

Our hosts at Elmadag

The Footage

Nearly ninety minutes of raw 8mm film shot along the way in 1964 — unedited and without commentary. The places, and the roads between them, as they were.

Available in two editions

Hardcover and paperback — published worldwide through Amazon.

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